These Designers Brought Lore, Not Just Looks, to Dubai Fashion Week

Founded by Dubai Design District and the Arab Fashion Council, Dubai Fashion Week returned this February for their AW 26/27 collection. Defining the modern women seemed to be the pursuit of both local and global designers at DFW. Collections spanned a multitude of silhouettes and tailoring techniques, with an emphasis of authenticity and autonomy at its epicentre. On Dubai’s catwalk, fashion functioned as a storytelling tool with designs asserting themselves as markers of empowerment.

HOUSE OF NARMAThe multidisciplinary design house and atelier House of Narma prides itself on blending cultural awareness with originality. Nouf Al Rashed tells Scene Styled: “Narma translates to fire (nar) and water (ma), meaning the concept of duality and balance is at the heart of every design.” Incorporating earthy tones with flashes of red reaffirmed House of Narma’s balance of vitality and seduction. Silhouettes remained fluid with structures rounded to elevate their delicate femininity. The inclusion of black and white co-ords paid homage to the ateliers' awe of symmetry. House of Narma’s motif of the Agal evolved within this collection, adorning tassel tops and pleated dresses. Fusing the natural world with the material is core to the brands belief, fashion is not only a performance but dialogue.

JOHN RICHMOND
John Richmond’s debut at DFW was nothing short of quintessential British punk fashion, existing at the interchange of music, art and clothing. Gothic black leather, mesh and lace dominate Richmond’s creative identity, harking back to the sleazy chicness of London’s underground scene. Sequin embroidery presented Union Jacks and John Lennon lyrics, symbolising not only the fashion of punk but the attitude that compliments it. Studded slips and leather corsets donned the runway, elevating the theme of subversion. John Richmond’s archival collection introduced the rich landscape of British subculture on Middle Eastern soil.

DHARA SHAH
Couture label Dhara Shah seeds their roots within Victorian and Baroque romanticism. Historical reference and contemporary womanhood inspire precise craftsmanship in this remarkable collection. “The entire collection is inspired by these period eras and takes you on a journey through different European perspectives.” Dhara Shah tells Scene Styled. Sculptural silhouettes and floral decoration assert romantic extravagance, directly influenced by the luxury of historic royalty. Reoccurring hues of inky black and gold represented the “the deep dark setting of female restraint in opposition with feelings of innocent romance”. Dharha Shah’s collection embodied desire with Dubai being a monumental milestone in her journey onwards to Paris Fashion Week.

BLSSD
Embracing streetwear’s provocative take on originality and combining that with luxury is Blssd’s and their debut collection ‘Yet’. “For us we started the brand inspired by street style. Blssd is about the duality of the woman who is stepping out on the street and expressing herself. When she does this, unexpected juxtaposition happens and style emerges. It’s a quiet rebellion.” Their utilitarian approach to design was evident with their signature combination of sharp structured blazers and relaxed fit bottoms. Blssd’s seasonal colour palette swayed from monochromatic to warm browns and blues emphasising understated rebellion. The label strives to liberate traditional aesthetics of the working women, in which flexibility elevates power.

DINA MELWANI
As the sole fashion designer and creative director, Dina Melwani exudes elegance and luxury within her DFW collection ‘Sapphire’. Talking on the importance of being the lone visionary Melwani tells Scene Styled: “I think it’s very important to have your own vision as your soul is transferred into the collections. Everybody has their own ideas, concepts and imaginations of something. My brand is my passion for designing coming to life”. Dina Melwani’s detailed tailoring manifested through floral applique and beadwork, adorning bustier evening gowns with mermaid silhouettes. Cultivating the energy of timeless sophistication, their contemporary couture returns deep sensitivity to the female form.

ASJAD
Asjad seasonal debut collection ‘Motion of Majesty’ is an evolving chapter of the brand's seven-year legacy. “Naming this collection was to represent the strength of women and setting them on a path of luxury, where movement, structure and power are embraced.” designer Shamma Majjan told Scene Styled. Scalloped silhouettes and precise embroidery recurred down the runway with rich tones of gold, blue and pink carrying the essence of royalty. Prominent fabrics included silk and taffeta with Majjan drawn to their lightness giving ability to move naturally to the body. ‘Motion of Majesty’ melds Middle Eastern aesthetic with refined beauty.