Lebanese Designer Ahmed Amer Drops New Poignant Collection

“Rooted in extensive research on Palestinian attire in the Levant area, this collection is a reflection of the turbulent times; a phase where I find myself gathering the fragments of the past collapse, patiently awaiting a resurgence.”

Emotional storytelling through minimal aesthetics is Lebanese multidisciplinary artist and Fashion Trust Arabia 2023 RTW winner Ahmed Amer's signature approach, and in his latest collection ‘Phase of Convergence’ he delves deeper into conveying complex narratives through intricate design and illustration. Inspired by over a year of collaboration with Inaash Tatreez, a Palestinian organisation dedicated to preserving cultural heritage through embroidery, the collection “confronts the emergence of new definitions in a world where fundamental human values seem to be eroding.”

Rich symbolism is woven throughout dynamic illustrations that adorn neutral fabrics. Recurring motifs of flowers, spirals, abstract facial forms and more each carry their own significance but collectively articulate both the designer's journey, and the devastating journey the world is embarking on. Inspired by traditional Palestinian and Levantine attire, the silhouettes Amer crafted sartorially and artistically reflect the devastating and ongoing genocide in Gaza. 

Above all, the collection underscores the power of creative expression to assert cultural roots and envision resurgence against oppression. SceneStyled recently caught up with Amer in a virtual exchange, in which the Fashion Trust Arabia winner spoke from the heart, in his own words, on his latest collection…  

What was the vision behind ‘Phase of Convergence’? What inspired you?

‘Phase of Convergence’ symbolises the amalgamation of elements to forge a new resurgence that I eagerly anticipated in the preceding phase. My brand, essentially an emotional journey, encapsulates the intricacies and struggles of my quest for home, my love-hate relationship with Beirut, and the constant state of in-betweenness. 

This thematic thread is evident in the nomenclature of my collections, referred to as ‘phases,’ each representing a distinct chapter in my ongoing experience.

The precursor to the ‘Convergence’ collection was ‘Vestige,’ emphasising remnants—the aftermath of mental and environmental collapse. This collection delved into what remained, utilising fabrics and illustrations from prior phases but approached with a fresh design perspective. 

As we transition into the ‘Convergence’ phase, the focus shifts to gathering all lines and elements deemed essential for the journey ahead. It involves intersecting emotions and phases, constructing a comprehensive language and emotional culture that acts as a platform for expression and envisions a resurgence.

I started working on this collection just before the recent tragic events and genocide unfolded in Gaza in September. This creative endeavour follows over a year and a half of collaboration with Inaash, where I dedicated myself to preserving Palestinian cultural heritage and empowering women through the art of Palestinian embroidery. The collection is deeply influenced by the ongoing crisis and serves as a tribute to the precious lives lost during the Gaza genocide.

Rooted in extensive research on traditional garments, especially Palestinian attire in the Levant area, this collection becomes a reflection of the turbulent times. It encapsulates a phase where I find myself gathering the fragments of the past collapse, patiently awaiting a resurgence. Simultaneously, it confronts the emergence of new definitions in a world where fundamental human values seem to be eroding. This period marks one of the most profound disappointments in my life, as it feels like humanity has failed us on a grand scale.

Yet, amidst this disappointment, there is a profound sense of pride in my origins and roots. The values and humanity embedded in my cultural heritage shine even brighter. These roots signify a commitment to acceptance, love, and peace, while standing resilient against violence, terrorism, and occupation. In the face of immense challenges, my collection becomes not only a testament to personal resilience but also a poignant expression of hope for a better, more compassionate world.

Could you walk me through the artwork that appears on each look? What do these designs and illustrations represent - both individually and as a collective?

In this collection, a myriad of dynamic, moving illustrations takes centre stage, incorporating blended elements and intricate intersections. These symbols are not arbitrary; they represent the entire journey I have lived. The flowers, recurrent motifs in constant rebirth, serve as a poignant expression of my existence. In this iteration, the increased number of flowers signifies the collective need to be heard, a resounding statement to the world that we not only exist but will also fiercely advocate for our place in it. 

Amidst these illustrations, flowers with arrows and directions become a visual metaphor for decision-making. The arrows loop, turn, and intersect, portraying the intricate process of seeking the best decisions within the chaotic dance of choices. The sun, with its dual representation of reality, decisions, and clarity, adds another layer of symbolism. The spiral, meanwhile, captures the essence of chaos and emotional purgatory, reflecting the complex emotional landscape.

Numerous other symbols play their roles—the hair, embodying infinite patience; faces, inviting introspection and portraying real struggles; hands, conveying the duality of letting go and holding on in relationships; birds, symbolising freedom, resilience and transformation; eyes, capturing the anticipation and impatience of waiting; and lips, representing the unspoken words that linger.

Introducing new techniques, like fizzy embroidery, adds texture to convey the nuanced feelings of our experiences and underscores the strength embedded in those emotions. Each element in this collection serves as a visual language, articulating the multifaceted narrative of resilience, struggle and the profound spectrum of emotions that shape our lives.

I’d love to hear all about the double shirt inspired by the bedouin thobe and the Palestinian keffiyeh - it’s absolutely gorgeous. 

The grid print is a homage to the original Palestinian koufiyye, featuring lines arranged both vertically and horizontally. This design draws inspiration from the distinctive pattern of the traditional Palestinian scarf. The Palestinian koufiyye, known for its iconic chequered motif, carries historical and cultural weight. By incorporating a grid inspired by this pattern, the collection pays tribute to Palestinian heritage and establishes a symbolic link to the enduring resilience of the Palestinian people.

The grid pattern, with its intersecting lines, goes beyond a mere aesthetic choice. It mirrors the theme of the collection by symbolising the convergence of diverse elements—vertically and horizontally—creating a harmonious and structured visual representation.

Moreover, the grid print becomes a metaphor for unity, resilience, and the strength derived from interconnectedness. Beyond its role as a design element, it emerges as a powerful symbol within the collection, adding depth and layers of meaning to the garments and contributing to the overarching narrative of ‘Convergence.’